How to Install J & M Adjustable Caster Camber Plates (11-14 All, Excluding GT500) on your Ford Mustang

1. Raise the vehicle to adequate working height and properly support the vehicle using proper jack stands (not a jack), then remove the wheels. If you have a strut tower brace, remove that as well. Re-install the nuts on the strut after you remove the brace. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. Next, remove the wiring harness that is clipped to the strut. Use the trim panel tool to remove the wiring clip.

2. Remove the 18mm nut on the strut for the sway bar end link. Remove the end link from the strut by pushing it through the hole. Do Not Use Impact Gun

3. Support the rotor with a jack stand, jack, or and then remove the two 18mm bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle. After the nuts are removed, you may need to wiggle the strut back and forth to be able to slide the bolts out of the knuckle. Once the bolts are removed, you will see why a jack stand was needed to support the rotor and knuckle assembly. If not properly supported, damage to the brake lines, wiring, or ball joints could occur. If you prefer you can carefully remove the spindle to strut bolts and carefully remove them while support the rotor by hand. Once they are removed you will want to safety tie the spindle/rotor assembly to the anti-roll bar to make sure the brake line does not get damaged.

4. With everything under the car loosened, you can now remove the 4 nuts in the engine bay. Once these 4 nuts are removed, the strut will come right out, so be sure to hold the strut while removing the fasteners.

5. With the strut removed, you can now compress the spring with the spring compressor. Many auto parts stores have a tool rental program if you don’t have your own. Usually, you leave a deposit for the tool, and get 100% back when you return the tools to the store. Install one compressor on each side of the spring, and engage the safety pins. Next you can start to compress the spring, compressing both sides evenly. Take your time and do a little bit on each side until the spring is compressed.

6. The spring is compressed enough when the spring has no pressure on the upper mounting plate, as shown to the right.

7. Once the spring is compressed, remove the 21mm nut on the top of the strut. You may need to hold the strut shaft with a 10 mm wrench to prevent it from spinning. Once the nut is removed, remove the upper strut mount. We do NOT recommend using impact guns on struts or shocks.

8. Figure out which strut you have using the image
below. If you have 2005-2010 proceed to step 9. If
you have 2011-up struts skip to step 13.

9. 2005-2010 struts you will install the long 1.550” spacer as shown below over the strut shaft.

10. Place the camber plate over the strut shaft and make sure spring seats properly into the rubber spring isolator like shown. Strut not shown for clarity.

11. Place the small spacer that measures .465” total length over the strut shaft. Spring not shown.

12. Re-Install the strut nut and torque to factory specifications. Spring not shown. (Do Not Use Impact Guns). Proceed to Step 16

13. 2011-Up struts install the dust cover, grade 8 lock washer, and the .600” long reducer spacer with the small diameter facing upward as shown.

14. Place the camber plate over the strut shaft and make sure spring seats properly into the rubber spring isolator like shown. Strut not shown for clarity.

15. 2011-Up will use the supplied machined reducer strut nuts as shown. Please note we supply two different sets of nuts. The silver color is course thread and the yellow zinc ones are the fine thread. Some aftermarket struts use a fine thread compared to the factory nut. Please make sure to test fit which nut on the strut by hand before torquing to avoid damaging the threads. Once you have determined the proper reducer nuts torque the strut nut to factory recommended torque specifications. Do Not Use Impact Guns. Spring not shown.

16. Once the strut nuts have been torqued you can now remove the spring compressor. Carefully remove it and make sure the springs are seated properly in the indexed area of the strut and camber plate spring seats.

17. The bottom of the strut tower must be smooth and free from any raised metal or flash. Run you finger across the underside of the tower and make sure it is smooth and free from scratches. If it is not smooth file or sand down any rough spots.

18. The camber plate has a offset bearing design which allows you to install them in a street setting or a race setting. To install in the street setting which will allow you to more positive camber for lowered cars simply install with the notch toward the inside of the car (engine side) and the race setting you will install the notch toward the fender (outside) of the car.

Depending on the type of racing you are doing will determine how much camber you want. Typically road racing and auto cross will need more negative camber. If you are setting your car up for this we recommend using the race orientation.

19. We install one 8mm nut onto one of the studs to keep the caster plate in place during shipping. Make sure to remove this nut before trying to install the assembly into the car.

20. Carefully reinstall the strut assembly into the vehicle using the desired orientation from step # 18 and install the supplied 8mm washers and 8mm locking nuts. Do not tighten.

21. Install the supplied M10 x 20mm bolt with 10MM support washer into the caster slot in the factory tower. You can now snug all 5 mounting bolts and nuts.