How to Install Power Stop Z26 Street Warrior Brake & Rotor Pad Kit - Front (11-14 GT Brembo; 12-13 BOSS; 07-14 GT500) on your Ford Mustang

STEP 2:
Block the rear wheels so the car won't roll once you jack it up. Put the car in park and set the parking brake firmly.

STEP 3:
Before jacking the car up off the ground, set the parking brake and loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break them free. Work them off just enough until they loosen their resistance and become easy to turn with the tire iron. Be sure to jack the vehicle on level ground, and use jack stands designed to support the weight of the vehicle. Raise the car and support with jack stands placed at the manufacturers recommended lift points. Usually the frame support area is immediately to the rear of the front wheels.

STEP 4:
Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. It is best to work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other side intact as a point of reference. As a safety precaution, roll the wheel/tire assembly under the front-center of the car, between the jack stands, and set it down beneath the engine's K-member, in the event of a faulty jack stand.

STEP 5:
Review the brake components. A disc brake assembly is composed of a caliper, two brake pads, and a rotor. The caliper works on pressurized brake fluid through a piston in the caliper. The caliper mounting bracket is bolted to the spindle, and holds the brake pads in position relative to the brake rotor. The caliper fits over the pads and is fastened to the brackets with special sliding bolts. These bolts usually have dust boots. When the brakes are applied, the caliper piston squeezes the pads against the rotor creating friction.

STEP 6:
Remove the bolts fastening the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. Gently slide it out and away from the rotor. Hang the caliper inside the wheel well using a coat hanger, so that the hose is not stressed. Do not let the caliper dangle from the brake hose line. Inspect the inside of the caliper and remove the brake pads. Remove the two remaining bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Use a wire brush to clean rust from the rails where the pads contact the caliper.

STEP 7:
With the caliper out of the way, remove the rotor. Sometimes the rotor rust will make it bind and you will need to use a mallet to loosen it. Tap both the front and backside
alternating left and right, top and bottom of the rotor. The rotor thickness should be measured and compared to the minimum discard thickness that is etched on the rotor. If the thickness is less than this minimum, then the rotor should be replaced.

STEP 8:
The next step is to move the piston back inside the caliper. The piston has extended as the pad material wears. With new thicker pads, you must return the piston back inside the caliper body to give the thicker pads room for installation. First crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper to allow brake fluid to be relieved. Place a container under the caliper to collect the fluid. Get a large C-clamp, place the used brake pad over the face of the piston to protect the surface from marring, and work it back that way. As you turn the handle on the clamp, it will increase pressure on the piston, until it becomes flush with the surrounding metal. Brake fluid will be released through the bleeder. Then loosen and remove the C-clamp. Close the bleeder screw for now. If you cannot open the bleeder screw, then push the C-clamp in slowly to prevent unsafe back pressure and damage to the ABS modulator, brake valving or master cylinder. It may be necessary to drain some fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.