Why Install Lowering Springs on Your Dodge Challenger

Apart from just looking badass, a lowered Challenger will also come reinvigorated with some performance improvements. Lowering the ride height of the car will also lower the center​ of gravity which does have a direct correlation with vehicle handling. With a lower CG, body roll is reduced and weight transfer due to acceleration is better proportioned. This translates to a flatter, more stable platform through corners, less tendency to nosedive under hard braking and decreased rear-end squat when unleashing all the ponies under the hood. 

Many manufacturers are presently out there hoping to entice you with their own specific wares. That said, regardless of manufacturer, there are basically three different kits available. An entry level, or stage one kit, usually provides a one-inch (1”) drop to both front and rear. This closes the fender well gap and mildly improves on-road handling without a major compromise in driving harshness, nor is it likely to require any additional parts to correct alignment issues. 

A middle of the road package (stage two) ups the ante by providing a drop in the neighborhood of an inch and a half (1.5”). This further drops the fender well closer to the tire and stiffens the handling. These kits are still typically well-mannered on bumpy roads and should not interfere with daily driving. However, some owners report having to purchase additional items in order to bring their tire alignment back into spec. Camber alignment can occasionally step out of line and there is zero camber adjustability within the factory suspension.

Finally, the most aggressive of the bunch would be a stage three kit where the total drop is typically around two inches (2”). This massive drop is for those that want an absolutely slammed look and are willing to sacrifice regular drivability in order to achieve it. Curbs, speed bumps, and any other minor obstacles will need to be circumnavigated with caution and it is nearly certain that you will need to bring the alignment back into spec with either adjustable camber bolts (if you’re lucky) or new control arms. Fender to tire gap is all but eliminated, thus you must be careful with the wheel and tire combination in play. A 29” diameter wheel/tire combination seems to be the limit for a 2” drop. Any larger and the tire may contact the fender. On the performance scale, a large drop like this will give the most laterally stable and firm ride, which makes track days even more exhilarating.

The truth to this question is that you always need to check alignment after installing a set of lowering springs, regardless of the level of drop they provide.

With a small drop of around 1”, as mentioned above, you'll likely get away without having to make any further modifications to your Challenger’s suspension geometry, but you cannot assume this without actually measuring.

Mid and high-drop lowering springs are likely to need further massaging to get the alignment back into spec. 2008-2018 Challengers do not come with any factory provisions to adjust camber, and it is typically this geometrical element that is found to be out of limits when installing lower springs. Failing to correct a camber problem (or any alignment problem, really) will result in rapidly increased tire wear. If alignment is found to be outside of tolerances, aftermarket adjustable control arms, caster/camber plates, and camber bolts will be next on the shopping list.

Challenger lowering springs come rated as one of two types: linear rate or progressive rate.

Linear rate springs are a more simplistic design where the coil rings are evenly spaced and compression is provided at a constant rate through the entire length of the spring. Take for example a spring that is linearly rated at 300 pounds per inch. For every 300 lbs of force applied, the spring will compress an inch (600 lbs = 2” compression, 900 lbs = 3” compression and so on). Linear springs make calculating ride height and remaining spring travel pretty easy and are also very predictable in terms of performance.

The downside to linear rate springs is that they do not do much for roll control. In a turn, weight is lifted from the inside wheels and transferred to the outside wheels. Thus you have the effect of the inside springs unloading and pushing the body up at a set rate whilst the outside springs are further compressed at the same constant rate, which is now experiencing greater weight and squatting the outside wheels of the Challenger. Because of this effect, linear springs are reliant on swaybars to minimalize body roll in a turn. Thus if you opt for a linear rate lowering spring, consider upgrading the swaybars and associated bushings to really maximize the cornering potential of your Challenger.

Progressive rate springs feature varying spacing between the coils – typically closer spacing at the top and increased spacing towards the bottom – and are constructed with a progressive compression rate. This means as the spring compresses, to compress it further becomes more difficult (required spring compression force increases at a progressive rate). This is more advantageous in regards to body roll control as during a turn the inner spring will not experience the same amount of decompression as a linear spring and the outer spring will face more limited compression itself, thereby reducing body roll.

Progressive rate springs are the choice for most OEM applications as they are able to offer a good blend of on-road comfort and performance. The only downside to progressive rate springs is that their compression rate is very difficult to determine and thus calculating and adjusting ride height becomes more of a trial-and-error process.

Do you need to replace your Challenger’s OEM struts and shocks when installing a set of lowering springs? While not necessarily unsafe to leave the OEM dampeners in, it certainly wouldn’t be wise. Simply put, the OEM struts and shocks are valved to control the length and rebound of the factory coil springs. Changing to a lowering spring with a different rate and height will force the OEM dampeners to work outside of their intended operating range and thereby cause them to wear very fast and ride harshly. This is especially prominent on Challengers that are equipped with the self-leveling Nivomat shocks in the back. If you want your Challenger to look mean, drive fast and handle well, installing a set of lowering springs with a matching set of shock absorbers is the best way forward.