Baer Claw Performance Drilled and Slotted Rotors; Front Pair (08-23 Challenger 392 Hemi Scat Pack Shaker, GT, R/T, SRT8, SRT Super Stock & T/A w/ 4-Piston Front Calipers)Find parts that fit my vehicle

Love Baer

Performance over stock is great, dissipates heat very well I can finally keep up with my brothers built BRZ in the canyons without my brakes overheating lol

Did Not fit

These rotors were sent and advertized as fitting my vehicle however, they were too small for my 2013 charger pursuit the diameter was 13" and my vehicle required 13.78" the return date expired during my rebuild and as you can imagine by the time I got to the brakes it had been more that 30 days. I should be able to return these rotors because the didnt fit

13” Baer slotted drilled

Good quality rotor, looks good with good bite , follow the break in procedure on the directions to maximize full potential of the rotor

Baer

They look great, stop awesome and fit perfect. They’re priced well also.

Baer Cross Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors for 2001 Bullitt

In searching for cross drilled and slotted rotors for my 2001 Bullitt, I came across the Baer rotors on American Muscle. The deciding factor for me to buy them was that in researching them, they are made in the USA. Most manufacturing is now done off shore, and I wanted to support a USA made manufacturer, as that is a rarity these days! so I ordered the Baer Rotors. The rotors are finished in a sliver colored plating. the cross drilled holes are exactly what I was hoping for, meaning that hey were not just drilled into the rotor. They are in fact cast into the rotor between the internal vents and are finished with a chamfer. Outstanding details! Installation is as simple as it gets. Remove the front wheel. The brake system is now revealed. You remove the clip holding the caliper body together, pull the long pin out. Then unbolt the (2) 12mm bolts holding the caliper to the pad bracket. You can carefully set the caliper aside. I placed mine on the A arm. You might consider using a wire or zip tie it out of the way as you do not want it to fall and potentially stretch or break the rubber brake line. Now the brake pads are exposed in the bracket. Remove the pads from the bracket aby simply pulling them out to the side. Now you can remove the caliper bracket. The bracket is held on by (2) 15mm bolts. If this is the first time the bracket has been removed, you will find that the factory used Red LockTite on the bolts. They are very hard to remove. I used a 1/2" breaker bar attached to the 15mm socket to loosen the bolts. Remove the bolts and the bracket comes off. Now remove the brake rotor. It should come off really easy. If it doesn't, just gently tap it with a rubber mallet and it'll come loose from the hub. Take the Baer rotor out of the box. You will notice that there is a small dime size label on the rotor hub that indicates what side the rotor goes on. R for right and L for left. Choose the appropriate rotor side and place it on the bearing hub. It will be a bit wobbly, so take a lug nuts and put it on. You do not have to gorilla tighten it, just enough to hold the rotor from wobbling. Take the caliper/pad bracket and reinstall it. Use Red or Blue LockTite on the 15mm bolts and tighten them to spec. Once the bracket is secure, put the brake pads into the bracket. Now place the caliper over the pads and bracket. You will need to cant the caliper forward so that the forward edge fits into the bracket. Once you do this, press the caliper down onto the pads/bracket. Insert the long pin into the forward receptacle, place the washer and clip back on and secure the caliper to the bracket with the (2) 12mm bolts. Now it is done. there are some additions that could be done. One is if you also need new brake pads, this is the time to do so. It is also the time to utilize the new rotor for some new transfer technology brake pads! I chose the GLOC GS-1 pads. They are transfer layer pads. This means that you have to have an absolute clean rotor surface, and since you are putting a brand new rotor on, all you have to do is use some brake cleaner on the rotor surface and install the pads. Transfer layer pads put down a small layer of pad material on the rotor surface. This means you are not braking pad to rotor surface, but pad to pad materiel. This is significant for two basic reasons. One, stopping power is greatly increased, and two the pads in this transfer layer technology are extremely rotor friendly! I particularly like the GLOC GS-1 street pads. Stopping is fantastic, modulation is incredible and one of the best things is...THEY ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DUST! I highly recommend them. Another addition could be installing Steel Braided Brake Lines. I have done both of these mods and they make the braking system very Porsche like, and that is a great thing! If there is a down side to the rotors, it is the cost. They are not inexpensive, but to get a made in the USA rotor, cross drilled (cast in not drilled) slotted rotor, with internal cooling vanes, it will cost more than the off shore brands. I do not know if the Baer's will perform better than the lessor cost rotors, but I suspicion they will, and as an added costly bonus, I feel like I supported a USA company which made me happy to do so.

Baer

Works great, definitely should right seems though it made by Baer. Not an extreme difference from the stock rotors though but look way cooler your car for sure.

2019 mustang gt PP1

Looks much better than stock, can feel weight difference between these and stock rotors, “stock feel” braking

1 Week of Use

Used for about a week and they still look really good.

Impressive

The rotors make the car look exotic; the brakes really grab, tremendously improving your braking depending on brake pad combination.

slotted rotors

look good, function good. what more could you want.